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Sustainability in the fashion industry has become a pressing issue due to the rise of fast fashion, leading to increased pollution, waste and environmental degradation. As consumers become more aware of the impact of their fashion choices, they are seeking alternatives that are better for the environment and society. This article takes an overview of the challenges and opportunities for brands in the UK to source sustainable apparel. Athletic Wear Fabric
Fast fashion is problematic for many reasons. First, when new trends are introduced on catwalk, an effort is made to quickly and inexpensively reproduce those designs and distribute them globally, before the trend becomes outdated. Besides giving rise to the unethical practices that often go into apparel manufacturing, the trend is also incredibly wasteful. The idea that you cannot be seen wearing the same outfit twice is new to this generation and it is incredibly costly – not just to consumers but also to the environment.
The Problem with Fast Fashion
Because of fast fashion and the likes of Shein, Misguided, and Boohoo among others, UK consumers can buy more clothing more often than they could have afforded in the past. This increase in fashion consumerism has, in turn, led to a huge increase in wastage, with as much as 25 per cent of textile waste occurring during manufacturing. 1a What’s more, with trends changing within weeks, lots of unsold items end up incinerated or in landfill.
What is the result of all of this fashion consumerism? The UK’s apparel industry revenue is estimated to reach an astonishing £65.6 billion by 2026. Within this, women’s apparel is estimated to remain the market’s largest share. 1b There’s big money involved, that’s for sure. But at what cost? Worldwide, the fashion industry is responsible for up to 10 per cent of pollution and is second only to the aviation industry. 2 Most people appreciate how bad air travel is for the environment, but the impact of the fashion industry is out of sight and much less obvious.
The Arrival of the Conscious Consumer
No matter their size, brands can no longer ignore the need for sustainable clothing. However, sourcing sustainable items and finding sustainable practices isn’t always easy. There are lots of considerations: from the sourcing of fabrics and the manufacturing process to the logistics and transportation.
In reality, though companies supplying fibres and chemicals/dyes market their products as sustainable, access to apparel and fabric manufacturers that focus on environmental impact and sustainability isn’t as easy.
It’s getting more and more difficult for brands to be transparent about sustainability, and awareness among consumers is greater than ever. Consumers aren’t as accepting of a claim of sustainability anymore; they’re now savvier and look into whether a brand is upholding its standards throughout the whole supply chain.
A Top Priority in the UK
For UK fashion brands, sourcing sustainable apparel is quickly becoming a main priority. Along with this, there is increased pressure to share sustainability information with end users. These practices are still in their early stages, however, and the fashion industry is somewhat lacking in common language and standards around sustainable sourcing.
What makes a brand sustainable?
As harsh as this sounds, no apparel brand is ‘completely sustainable’ in the sense that the world already has tonnes of useable garments and there really is no need for anymore. Marketing a sustainable brand, therefore, has a lot to do with education. Educating consumers on the choices they can make is important; awareness of the issues in the textile industry is imperative.
Some brands have introduced subtle ways of encouraging sustainability. In 2020, for example, John Lewis included a new message on its clothing labels that read: “Wear it, Love it, Hand it down.” 3 Other brands have launched similar labels. Inside M&S children’s coats, for instance, there’s now a label with three name spaces followed by the message: “Please pass me on when you are done.” It is clear that some of the big UK brands are realising things need to change.
What else can companies do?
To become a sustainable enterprise in the UK fashion industry, companies need serious commitment. It’s all or nothing. With a lot of the textile industry located outside of the country and continent, being sustainable isn’t easily achievable.
Sustainability got to be authentic and transparent to make a difference, as otherwise environmentally conscious consumers will see through sustainability lip service. These customers will be considering where the materials were sourced and where the items were made as well as the brand’s plans and goals moving forward.
Clothing apparel is a crowded industry and companies need to strive to get noticed. Showing consumers the environmentally conscious side of a brand is key in the current climate.
Let’s look at the different ways in which companies can source sustainable apparel:
1. It’s all in the design
Design is the principal constituent of sustainability. Choosing timeless, robust pieces means the lifecycle of the items will increase massively and as such, there will be a reduction in the environmental impact. Sourcing items that have multiple functions and uses will mean they will be more versatile.
On average, in the UK a garment lasts around 2.2 years 4 . If companies’ source timeless, resilient and versatile items, and encourage a hand-me-down approach, this can significantly extend the active life of the garment and in turn, reduce its impact on the environment.
Though the longevity of a garment is important, environmentally conscious consumers would not be interested unless it is sustainable in other ways. The materials and fabrics are a big part of an item’s sustainability. Choosing eco-friendly materials and suppliers can help companies reduce their carbon footprint while also adding value to their garments. By choosing certified sustainable suppliers, companies can use that to their advantage in marketing too. They need to work with transparent and trusted suppliers that see sustainability as a common goal.
Here are some things to consider:
• Consider fabrics whose production is not harsh on the environment like organic cotton, linen, hemp, modal and Tencel.
• Choose 100 per cent fabrics, e.g., 100 per cent cotton to ensure easier recycling.
• Consider mixed materials for durable items.
• Look for natural dyes in materials.
Choosing manufacturers who care about their workers and their working environment is another consideration. When there are happy and healthy workers, the products are typically superior. Look into their energy efficiency, levels of chemical and water use in manufacturing, fair wages, and good working conditions.
Sustainability considerations do not end at the factory door. When items are finished and ready for transportation, the environmental impact of how they move to where they need to go matters. Besides buying in large quantities, there are other ways companies can ensure their sustainable ethos continues after leaving the factory.
• Is the apparel produced locally or as close to the UK as is reasonably possible?
• Is it shipped by rail or ocean rather than air or road?
• Are boxes optimised with garments folded or are they on hangers and taking up more space?
• How much plastic is involved in packing and is it necessary?
Companies can do all they can to create a low environmental impact until items reach the customer. At this point, education comes in. Ultimately, brands cannot control what a customer does after purchase but promoting the sustainability of the product through marketing and education can change mindsets.
Here are some ideas for increasing post-sale sustainability awareness:
• Include information about care on the tags and encourage passing it on.
• Provide education on the website so customers can learn about the sustainability of the products and what they can do to help.
How to find sustainable apparel suppliers?
There are several ways to find sustainable apparel suppliers. Most companies will use search engines as their first port of call when looking to expand or re-think their sustainability strategies. However, using the internet is not always the best way. There are some wonderfully sustainable manufacturers out there who simply cannot be found easily on Google because their websites are not optimised well for Google’s algorithm. They might be the best out there, but those searching for it might just would not be knowing that they exist.
One of the best ways to find and meet suppliers is by going to a trade show. These exhibitions are flocked by people from all areas of the fashion industry, and they are a great place to meet and make connections.
Sustainable apparel is a relatively new phenomenon in the fashion industry. The explosive growth of ‘fast fashion’ means the world is in crisis through increased water pollution, emissions and waste. Thankfully, consumers are becoming increasingly aware of how problematic this is and are looking for alternatives. More and more companies are responding to these consumers and their desires for greener fashion that’s beneficial to both humanity and the environment. When brands become more environmentally aware, they also develop an increased sense of responsibility.
Factors to consider when sourcing sustainable apparel include the fabrics, their dyes, the use of water, the product design, ethics, logistics and consumer education. For companies looking to source sustainable apparel, trade shows and Google are their best friends. When more and more companies abandon fast fashion in favour of sustainable options, we should start to see an improvement in the environmental impact of the UK fashion industry as a whole.
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